CHILL OUT!
July 26, 2006
We just returned from two weeks in Austria and
Germany. A main focus was to visit the Wachau region in Austria to
see how the two main white varietals grown there, Riesling and the
indigenous Gruner Veltliner, are producing world class wines that truly
express a distinctive terroir. The stunning vistas were
mesmerizing as we bicycled 40 km along the Danube River between Melk and
Krems. Fairytale-like villages lined the river spaced by orchards
ladened with bright orange apricots and crimson cherries. Even though
it's the middle of summer, wild flowers flourished in the tall lush
green grass. Chirping birds were heard everywhere. The
landscape is studded with steepled churches and the ruins of medieval
castles and fortresses. Steep and rocky terraced vineyards seem to climb
up to the clouds from the river's edge. Both wines are typically
unoaked expressions of orchard and citrus fruit, spice and a mineral element
identifiable as a crushed white pepper flavor. However, the Gruners
have more assertiveness and a sense of fleshiness than the sleeker
Rieslings. Vibrant acidity from the cool
microclimates along the upper rocky terraces of the valley provide balance and
aging potential for these racy dry white
wines. Both wines are designated by levels of ripeness at
harvest; Qualitatswein is qba or "quality" wine (11.5 to 13 percent
alcohol), Federspiel is the equivalent of the German "kabinett", while
Smaragd is the same as the riper German "spatlese". We
liked the current releases from the 2004 vintage for their
refreshing crispness and cleansing acidity, and the way they paired so
exceptionally well with trout, wienerschnitzel, and various pork
preparations. They also have a natural affinity for spicy
Asian dishes. A nicely chilled Austrian Gruner
Veltliner is the perfect accompaniment to help foil the excruciatingly
hot weather we have been experiencing.
So, for now, to acquaint yourself better with the Gruner
Veltliner varietal, here is a fine value from the Kamptal district,
just northeast of the Wachau. The 2004 Loimer Kamptal
Langenlois*** (Qualitatswein) impresses with its
intense grapefruit and lime, while white pepper and hints of crushed celery
seed add intriguing complexity. "Tight, focused
and racy, with concentrated apple, citrus and grapefruit flavors. Smoked almond
and spice notes add richness. Spicy finish. Drink now through 2011.
(KM) - 89 points, Wine
Spectator. Should be $19.50 a
bottle. Order Now for only $16.95 a
bottle.
Final note: The very best Riesling
and Gruner Veltliner are usually Smaragd from specific vineyard
sites and priced from $35 to $70+ dollars. This
fall when the 2005s are released, I intend to offer you wines from the most
reputed producers of the region; Hirtzberger, Prager, Knoll, and
Pichler to name a few. Quantities will be very limited.
Inquire now if you wish to be placed on the pre-arrival
list.
Some more GREAT VALUE WHITES to
help with the heat!
2005 Heron
Chardonnay*** is a blend of grapes from three of California's
best cool-growing regions; the Russian River Valley, Carneros, and Santa
Maria. This wine spent only six months in a combination of new and used
French oak barrels and maintains its refreshing fruitiness by
not undergoing malolactic fermentation. This value
chardonnay's pure varietal fruit character of lemon, apple and pear is
enhanced with a tinge of orange marmalade and vanillin. Instead
of fatiguing softness, this wine's vibrant crispness makes it
ideal for hot weather drinking with or without food. Now only
$9.95 a bottle (ON SALE from
$11.95).
Unoaked, citrus tinged, dry, crisp, and clean,
tantalizing white blend of Verdejo and Viura fruit from Rueda.
Perfect with grilled prawns, or "chilled down" steamed mussels
and clams, or fresh shucked oysters on the half shell. The 2005 Hermanos Villar "Ipsum"*** is a great
alternative to more expensive Sauvignon Blanc for just $9.95 (ON SALE from
$10.95).
The Narvana Cava Brut Reserva
Blanc de Blancs, Penedes, Spain***
delivers lively beads of fine little bubbles with a
soft elegant mouthfeel for only $11.95 (ON SALE from
$13.95). A perfect sparkling wine to pair with take-out sushi on
a Saturday night, followed by another bottle for brunch on
Sunday!
"EMERGENCY CHILL DOWN
SPECIAL" - PURCHASE A CASE
SAMPLER - 3 BOTTLES EACH OF THE FOUR SELECTIONS, AND TAKE AN
ADDITIONAL 10 PERCENT DISCOUNT OFF BOTTLE PRICE!
*** Available to taste this Saturday at the store's tasting bar
beginning from Noon until 4 pm!
Order immediately, if you are interested in picking up a
few bottles of one of the most anticipated German Riesling releases from the
heralded 2004 vintage - 2004
Emrich-Schonleber Riesling Spatlese Monzinger Halenberg, Nahe - $49.95 NET "Scintillating aromas and flavors of berries, citrus, vanilla and
stone highlight this elegant, intense Riesling. An amazing range of
flavors packed into a light-weight frame, with a vibrant structure that
resonates through the finish. Terrific, complex aftertaste. Drink now through
2025. (BS)" - 95 point,
Wine Spectator
Eric Stumpf
The Wine Consultant
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