"Discovery Producer of the Year"
October 04, 2006
When a distributor, importer, or winery
representative samples me on their wines, I have couple of rules that I
follow 99% of the time.
- I never order the day I
taste. Helps avoid alcohol induced compulsive behavior.
If I am still thinking about the wine a few days later, I take this as a
positive sign.
- I disqualify any wine when the a score,
rating or tasting competition result is "inadvertently" quoted by the
representative. I want to be objective. The
wine should "sell" itself.
- I ask not to be told the price until I
inquire. This helps me to determine my own quality to value
relationship.
- I try not to purchase more than
one wine from a producer. I may
purchase multiple selections if the wines are distinctive and
exemplary, and I can't decide between them. Ex - Lewis, Shafer,
Beaux Freres, Mollydooker!
So, I guess you would have to qualify Sonoma Coast Vineyards as my "Discovery Producer of the Year",
since upon tasting for the first time last week, I immediately purchased
all four wines presented.
Sonoma Coast
Vineyards could have come up with a name that has a little more
attitude or market sizzle, but actually the name says it all, especially if you
understand that this new appellation (Sonoma Coast AVA) has immense
potential. Robert Parker states, "where world class Pinot Noirs and
Chardonnays are being made that are every bit as complex and complete as the
greatest wines of France". The Sonoma Coast appellation encompasses about
7,000 acres of vineyard running up and down the maritime influenced cooler
growing regions of the Sonoma coast. Specific sub appellations to watch
for include elevated vineyards adjacent to the shoreline where "extreme"
growing conditions will stress test the vines. Cold,
fog, wind, and rain are elements that limit sunlight and
warmth to curtail the ripening process, and thus the number of
varietals suited to this region; focus is centered on Pinot
Noir, and smaller quantites of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah.
One only needs to look at the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay being produced from
the Sonoma Coast AVA by Kistler, Marcassin, WH Smith, Kosta Browne, Aubert,
Williams Selyem, Martinelli, to name and few..... to realize the excitement
the region is producing.
I remember the first California Pinot Noir to
set my heart a flutter. It was made in the 1977 vintage by the
youthful Tony Austin, the founding winemaker of Firestone Vineyards in Santa
Barbara. Austin studied under legendary winemaker Andre
Tchelistcheff, who created Napa Valley's Beaulieu George de Latour's Private
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I also remember Tchelistcheff's 1976
"Los Carneros" Pinot Noir under the BV label that was released about the same
time as Firestone's. Both wines promised greater potential for Pinot
Noir in California. Tchelistcheff was correct when he said it would
take many years before California Pinot Noir could compete with the
French. Thirty years later, cool weather
veteran Anthony Austin ("Anthony"
sounds a little more mature) is the winemaker for Sonoma Coast
Vineyards. One taste of the 2003 Pinot Noir and you need no
convincing he has reached his place of nirvana at the end of the holy
grail. All of Tony's wines are of exceptionally high quality and
marry complexity and elegance with balance and
harmony.
And believe me when I say, Sonoma Coast Vineyards' prices are still
value laden...especially for limited production wines. Yes, you
are not paying to purchase a "name"....yet! The Chardonnay is up to snuff
with Kistler's efforts, but half the price. The velvety Pinot Noir can
compete with Rochioli or the other aforementioned at a lesser
price.
2005 Sauvignon Blanc
"Hummingbird Hill Vineyards" - $25 to $30
NOW $23.95 A BOTTLE OR $19.95 ON SIX OR MORE OF THIS
WINE ONLY!
- Blended with the Musque clone, this wine seems to
be a combination of New Zealand and
Calfornia personalities. Floral, with distinctive citrusy, almost
grapefruity, Marlborough-like gooseberry aromas, but with the ripe
fruitiness and weight of a California Sauvignon Blanc.....Oh!
That's right....it is!! 1,125 cases.
2004 Chardonnay
"Petersen Vineyard & Mill Station Vineyard" -
$50 NOW $44.95 OR $39.95 ON SIX OR MORE OF THIS WINE
ONLY!
- It was time to sit up and take notice when I
first sampled this Chardonnay. My very first impression....not
overripe, not over worked and not over oaked! Barrel fermented
in fifty percent new French oak from Tonnellerie Sirugue and 50% "seasoned" or
neutral oak. A wine of perfect harmony with a lighthouse beam
of acidity that perked up one's ability to sense and contemplate its
growing complexity. More like a slighly spiced, vanilla panna
cotta, oozing with texture, then garnished with slivers of poached
pears and a slightly buttered, lightly toasted, sliced almond....Wente Clone
adds a touch of tropical citrus to the mix. Excellent now, but
potential to improve to greater depths with cellaring for up to 3-4
years. 510 cases.
2003 Pinot
Noir - $60 NOW $49.95 OR
$45.95 ON SIX OR MORE OF THIS WINE
ONLY!
- A blend of six vineyard sites and 7 clone
selections including Dijon, Pommard and Swan. This is one of the very best
Pinot Noirs I have tasted this year....and it's affordable!! Honestly,
this wine makes you feel like you have a superstar palate! The fog has
lifted and I can see clearly now....!! The beautiful ruby color cloaking
this wine is only surpassed by the vibrant aromas and vivid flavors of
quintessential fresh ripe red cherries. You pick
your spices, as there is something there for everyone to find. A
little vanillin and toast in the background frames this wide angle
panorama. Velvety mouthfeel will continue to expand.
Finish lingers long enough to serve as a reminder
for those who suffer from "senor moments" (of course, this only
applies to us oldsters!). Buy this wine! 775 cases.
2003 Syrah "Hummingbird
Hill & Clary Ranch Vineyards" - $45
NOW $41.95 OR $37.95 ON
SIX OR MORE OF THIS WINE
ONLY!
- Where most California Syrah grown in warmer
climes can overripen, lack acid balance, and be plagued by out of control high
alcohol...... this cooler rendition's bright streak of acidity lifts
its classic crushed white pepper scented blackberry
fruit to a transluscent clarity on the nose and in the
mouth. Beautifully balanced and showing more refinement than one should
expect from a California Syrah, it is testimony to the great potential of this
cooler growing appellation. This wine has elements that are
similar to Syrah wines from the cold Northern Rhone region of
France. This Syrah was the only unanimous choice when selected
by a distinguished panel of trade (including our local gastronome hero
Darrell Corti) to represent California in an upcoming Syrah challenge with
Australia. 395 cases.
AGGRESSIVE PRICING! YOU
BET!! HOW CAN I BE MORE EMPHATIC.....PLEASE TRY THESE
WINES!!
ORDER BY REPLYING DIRECTLY TO THIS
E-MAIL!
FINALLY! WE HAVE BEEN
INVITED TO BRING A DOZEN GUESTS DOWN TO SONOMA COAST
VINEYARDS IN MID-NOVEMBER FOR A SPECIAL TOUR, AND INCLUDING AN
EXCLUSIVE WINE AND FOOD PAIRING. SIGN UP FOR THE LOTTERY DRAWING FOR THIS
EVENT.
For those of you who have been hiding in a cave and
have not heard the news, the Michelin Dining Guide selections for the Bay
Area have just been announced and a complete listing of the results can be
found at the webstore.
Eric Stumpf
The Wine Consultant
View the Archives |
|
