I want to take you higher!
February 20, 2007
I am often asked who are my favorite California
producers. I ponder for a split second and reply, "amongst those with high
elevation vineyards, especially with older vines". Better drainage,
greater vine stress, lower yields; all equate to more intense
concentration of fruit flavors. Along the
Mayacamas Mountain range separating Napa Valley from Sonoma, Mount Veeder and
Spring Mountain have vineyards planted as high as 2600 feet. Across the
Napa Valley, almost every winter Howell Mountain vineyards receive a
little dusting of snow at 2200 feet. There are plantings in the
Sierra Foothills at 3,000 feet. Just for the record, in the northwest corner of
Italy, Aosta vineyards are the highest in mainland Europe at 4,300 feet.
The Canary Islands in the Atlantic have vineyards planted at 5,300
feet.
In Argentina, elevated vineyards have become a
true status symbol in the 'hood! In Mendoza, most of the lower
lying old vineyards are planted at about 3,300 feet. New vineyard
expansions in southern Mendoza (Tupungato and Tunujan) are being
planted at just over 5,000 feet as the investment money dares Mother
Nature not to ripen the grapes. A reference to a wine's elevation
source is common back label criteria and an important marketing tool.
Strange, but one does not have a sense of being at a higher elevation,
as the topography is gently sloping foothills rising up to
the base of the Andes.
So what's the big deal? Well, higher elevations
extend the growing season and allow for a slower ripening evolution of the grape
to improve flavor. Bigger swings in the growing season's warmer day and
cooler night time temperatures help to preserve the grape's natural
acidity. And then there is the more intense sunlight that scientists know
improve the vines ability to photosynthisize. And finally, there
is less chance for pollution, a definite concern in Mendoza as most
tourists are startled to see the unpublicized oil refineries spewing smoke into
the air along the southwestern range from the city.
When you travel to the province of
Salta in the very north-west corner of Argentina (closest to Bolivia) you
can stop worrying about pollution. After one leaves the main resort town
of Cafayate at 7,000, one sees fewer and fewer cars, people, buildings or paved
roads....95 percent of the land becomes uncultivated high scrub
desert! Not a good place if you have a breakdown and need to call
AAA.
In 2001, Swiss entrepreneur Donald Hess purchased
the Colomé Estate in the remote Calchaquies Valley of Salta (220 km/135 miles
southwest from the capital city of Salta). There are two stories
here. The first continues the theme of high elevation, as these
vineyards are the highest in the world; planted at elevations ranging from
7,200 to 9,890 feet (newly planted). Second, 11 hectares (1 hectare = 2.471 acres) of this
estate are "ancient" Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted on their
own pre-phylloxera rootstock imported from Bordeaux in 1854. They are
the oldest vineyards in Argentina.
Last Saturday at the tasting bar, I included the
2004 Colomé Estate. A blend of
biodynamically farmed, hand harvested and triple sorted 66% Malbec, 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 14% Tannat - from 20% old vines, 60 to 150 year old yielding .6
tons/acre, and 80% young vines, yielding 1.6 tons/acre. 12 months
French oak aging (64% new, 36% once filled). It is conservative to say,
the wine was well received by our participants as all sixty bottles we received
on Friday were sold out by the close of business
Saturday.
Of course, I would not be writing this if there wasn't
more of the 2004 Colomé Estate arriving this week.
Also, of great conversation, but not tasted, is
a miniscule amount of the 2003 Colomé
Estate Reserva. Just 250 cases (45
imported) were produced, again farmed biodynamically, and only from
the 11 hectares of "ancient" vineyard at 7,200 to 8,000 feet elevation.
The Reserva is a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and spent
18 months in new French oak.
Unbeknownst to me, even before departing for Argentina in
January and until I began doing more research for this e-mail, did
I learn the 2004 Colomé
Estate was ranked in the
Wine Spectator's "2006 Top 100 Wines of the Year"
at number 93. I am pleased to see
Colomé Estate earn this early distinction and expect more accolades from future
vintages. Colomé
Estate has successfully produced
modern wines expressing its sense of history, tradition and
special place of origin.
Wine Spectator's review for both
wines:
2004 Bodega Colomé
Estate -
Exotic aromas of fig and hoisin sauce give way to a rich, creamy-textured
palate full of dark plum, blackberry, coffee and chocolate ganache. Has solid
grip on the finish, with a loamy hint in the background. Malbec, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Tannat. Drink now through 2008. 3,000 cases made. 91
points JM
and the....
2003 Bodega
Colomé Estate Reserva -
Smells and looks like Port, with molasses and blueberry aromas and
inky color. Thick but creamy, with layers of hoisin sauce, macerated plum,
chocolate ganache and fig preserve. Has the structure to keep it going, but the
style may be extreme for purists. A wine to spread on toast. Malbec
and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2010. 250 cases made. 93
points JM
ORDER NOW BY REPLYING DIRECTLY TO THIS
E-MAIL -
2004 Bodega Colomé
Estate - Calchaquies Valley, Salta - Argentina -
$29.95
- or purchase six bottle
and receive a ten percent discount to $26.96 a bottle.
2003 Bodega Colomé
Estate Reserva - Calchaquies Valley, Salta - Argentina -
$110.95
- purchase with six bottles of the 04 Colomé Estate for $100 a bottle (limits may be
imposed).
All orders will be
confirmed in the order received by reply e-mail with invoice attached for review
and reference. Limited to
availability.
I intend to pour the 2004 Bodega Colomé Estate again at
the tasting bar this Saturday from noon to 4 pm (even if it is already sold
out). Anticipate other surprise wines! Come early, as last
week it became very crowded later in
the afternoon. Every Friday afternoon, always check out http://www.thewineconsultant.com/tastingbar for
a preview of Saturday's lineup. Casual and nonjudgemental.....please
drop by for the informative fun. No reservations are
required.
Eric Stumpf
The Wine Consultant
8039 Greenback Lane
Citrus Heights, CA 95610
(916) 721-WINE (9463)
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