Great Bordeaux For A Pittance!
November 22, 2007
Regardless of your politics, if you have not experienced
the joy of drinking fine Bordeaux, then you really have no reference point to
judge Cabernet Sauvignon "et al"., produced in other regions of the world.
Prices have spiraled to ludicrous heights for the upper echelon classifed
growths, making them only "affordable" luxuries to only the wealthiest
collectors. And even the lesser known, cult followed, garagiste
(garage) producers from Bordeaux demand prices at futures trading or release
that make Napa Valley's best pale in comparison. It seems as if
every other vintage is introduced to the collector as the next "must
have classic" or "vintage of the century" (2000 and 2005 are the most
recent examples). And like gasoline prices, once we have been conditioned
to accept a price we did not believe could go higher, look out!.....the trade
and critics exalt again....and prices take another hike. There is
a stopping point, where one must protest, and even as a wine merchant with
an excellent and "flush" clientele, I stopped purchasing Bordeaux
futures with the 1995 vintage. So the point in this e-mail,
is not to tell you I have found a quality Bordeaux value for you at the
bargain price of a $100 a bottle. No, even
better!
I was stopped dead in my tracks when I sample the
2003 vintage of Chateau Fonbadet from the
Pauillac appellation, the most noted Cabernet producing region
of Bordeaux. And for all of you in need of a little cheering
up, this wine will renew your faith there are still little golden
nuggets to be found out in those yonder vineyards of Bordeaux that we can
all savor guilt free, and without undermining one's self esteem. By
the way, if you are concerned about vintage quality in Bordeaux, the 2003
vintage is certainly the "sleeper" vintage of the century, sandwiched between
the most two most recent "vintage of the century" 2000 and
2005 vintages, the 2003 vintage has received 95 point ratings from both the
Wine Spectator and Robert Parker. No, Chateau Fonbadet is
not included in Bordeaux's 1855 classified growth registry created at that
time as a marketing tool for the Paris World's Fair. Nope, this is
"Cru Bourgeois" at its best! But don't be concerned, because no one
is going to know the difference....and this traditionally made wine should
be judged only on its modern day merits. You see, forgotten Chateau
Fonbadet's has three vineyards totaling about 50 acres, situated
just north of the tiny village of Saint-Lambert surrounded by the best
producers in Pauillac; one vineyard is just to the north of 1st Growth
Mouton Rothschild, another is contiguous with famed Lynch-Bages, and
finally the third is adjacent to "Super
Second" Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande and 1st
Growth Chateau Latour!! If none of this means anything to you,
although "Fonbadet" translates to "fountain in the small valley", just
think of Park Place on the Monopoly game board.
In 1963 the current owner, Pierre Peyronie's father
allow him to vinified his first vintage of Chateau Fonbadet. Average age
of the vines is about 60 years, but even in his youth, Pierre Peyronie has
no recollection of ever seeing a vine plot pulled for replacement.
Farming is completely organic. And low yields are always stressed
with a maximum of only 3 to 4 clusters per vine allowed. The 2003
Chateau Fonbadet is composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20%
Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, with another 5% of combined Malbec and Petit
Verdot. Judicious use of French oak naturally oxygenates the wine without
taking a way from the natural terroir components of the wine.
The heady and comlex aromas are already developing signs
of bottle bouquet; cedar, cigar wrapper/tobacco leaf spice, crushed
green peppercorn, wild berries and loamy mineral notes. The wine
is not lean or austere on the palate, but has ample ripeness and displays
an unbelievable silky texture with airing. Full tannins and
a lengthy finish guarantee greater evolution with
age. About 2,900 cases were produced.
I found evidence this wine has
sold for over $40 a bottle......a true bargain at that
price. Regretfully, I purchased the very last available 20 cases
of this wine, but only have about 100 bottles remaining to sell at
$29.95 a
bottle.
ORDER NOW BY REPLYING TO THIS
E-MAIL!
Most of you will not read
this until Monday, November 26th., so do not despair, if you believe you are
tardy to order.
In the meantime, Happy Turkey Day! Hope
you can join me the next two days (Friday and Saturday) at the tasting
bar from Noon to 4 pm.
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