Several years ago Sergio Germano made an experimental batch of ‘classic method’ sparkling wine from early harvested Nebbiolo, and it was delicious. Red berries, bright acidity, beautiful pink color. The ‘Rosanna’ is named after Sergio’s mother; it’s made of young-vine Nebbiolo from around his winery (all Barolo vineyards), picked in early September as part of the ‘green harvest’ process, pressed carefully for a pale pink color, fermented as white wine (80% in stainless steel, 20% in used barriques for complexity), and bottled for the second fermentation in March following the vintage. After about 16 months of time on the lees the wine is disgorged and topped up only with the same wine, no ‘liqueur.’ The result is dry, delicious and complex, perfect as an aperitif but, it would be great with salmon (smoked or gravlax) too. Italy’s most interesting sparkling wines are made of indigenous varieties, and this is one of them. The result is dry, delicious and complex (only about 3g/L of residual sweetness, depending on the vintage). We were equally impressed by the very fine, delicate and frothy bubbles, while still displaying a lovely essence of raspberry.