Siefersheim is located in the extreme north-east of the German region known as Rheinhessen, just a few kilometres south-east of the town of Bad Kreuznach, amidst a landscape of steep hills of volcanic origin, interspersed with heath, untouched brooks and small streams, old stone quarries and overgrown walls built of rocks, the gateway to the region known as the “Rheinhessische Schweiz” (Switzerland of Rheinhessen).
At a time when the Mainz Basin and large parts of Rheinhessen were still an ocean, the volcanic peaks around Siefersheim peeped out of the blue of the ocean as islands, including the town that exists there now, as well as the vineyard sites of Martinsberg, Heerkretz, Goldenes Horn and Höllberg.
The foundation for the Wagner estate was laid in 1845, with earlier generations shaping what was originally a classic mixed farming operation into a widely renowned wine estate, and leading the Höllberg and Heerkretz vineyard sites to supra-regional importance in the early decades of the 20th century.
The Vom Porphyr is the estate’s signature cuvée. Named after the volcanic soil (“porphyr”) in which the Riesling grapes are grown, this absolutely dry wine possesses an extraordinary purity and beautiful mineral expression that is difficult to describe adequately. Think crisp green apple, lime, salinity, and “steel” stones. The Vom Porphyr is one of the greatest dry wines in Germany, easily the equal of many Grosses Gewächs (“great growth”) Rieslings that cost far more.
“Purely in terms of style, the 2015 vintage in Siefersheim probably has the potential to stand completely on its own, as the combination of very ripe, healthy grapes with at the same time very high levels of acidity is one not seen in either the very ripe vintages of 2011 or 2007 nor in the cool vintages such as 2010 or 2008. Perhaps the 2012 vintage is the one that is most closely comparable. We are confident that these will be very vibrant, powerful wines, with strong aromatic expression, reflecting the perfect late vintage, and which, with their piquant acidity will balance the full body, providing lightness and elegance. A style that can come very close to our ideal of what wines from Siefersheim should be like. In particular, the enormous contrast of powerful, complex body on the one hand, and the fresh, racy acidity on the other, together with the salty, minerally finish of the porphyric soil structure can hopefully be particularly well expressed in the wines of the 2015 vintage. We look forward to the coming months with great interest and expectations, and are already very happy with what will hopefully be a really fantastic 2015 vintage.” Daniel Wagner & Oliver Müller