Not Tokaji Aszu, the decandently sweet, syrupy noble wine made from individually selected, single botrytis Furmint grapes from the bunch, and historical reserved for the kings and czars. But Szamorodni (sam-oh-rod-nee) is an affordable and absolutely delicious, complex alternative, not nearly as labor intensive to harvest or produce.
Szamorodni means “as it is” or “the way it was grown”, and can include both the Furmint and Harslevelu varieties from whole bunches of partially botrytis or healthy grapes. Fermented together, and depending upon the amount of raisin and shriveled fruit the resulting wine can be made in two styles; dry (száraz) or sweet (édes). The resulting sweet wines can be compared to French Sauternes or German Beerenauslese.
This is the first Bott’s Édes ever imported and from the Csontos Vineyard. It is only produced in the finest vintages when at least 50% of the botrytis Furmint and Harslevelu bunches are affected. Because the mold (“noble rot”) is an ongoing occurrence during the harvest season, sometime 6 or 7 passes are necessary to collect a sufficient amount of fruit. Just as important are the healthy bunches of non-botrytized fruit. Less oxidative than Aszú but far more layered than a late harvest, this is just pure delicious; think honeyed and caramelized ripe apricots, peaches and pears. The ’17 finishes at a robust 11.4% alcohol. The residual sugar is 128.8 g/l, while the off setting acidity is 6.48 g/l.