Alberto Nanclares is an unassuming new star in Cambados. From working as an economist for many years, to a fortuitous second career in grape-growing, to today crafting some of the most serious, ocean-infused, age-worthy single vineyard Albariños. Alberto is an ever-evolving colleteiro bringing Val do Salnés wines back to their Atlantic roots.
After working with an enologist for several years, Alberto took over full time winemaking duties for his Nanclares wines in 2007. “In the winery, we respect the grapes as much as possible, we don’t use any winemaking additions besides moderate amounts of SO2. We do not ferment with pie de cuba (pied-de-cuve) in order to preserve the identity of each vineyard.” Alberto says. All of his wines are fermented with wild yeasts by parcel. Preferring the edginess of the naturally high in acidity Albariño grape, he eschews adding potassium to his wines, which is what many folks in Rías Baixas use to de-acidify and soften their wines. Malolactic fermentation rarely occurs, and the wines spend a good amount of time (usually more than one year) on their lees before being bottled without clarification or filtration. Nanclares wines are angular and vin-de-garde in style, with great concentration and crystalline precision.
Cambados is a town located right on the Atlantic Ocean in the prime Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas. This town, perched on La Ría Arousa, is considered to be the ancestral home of the Albariño grape. Inextricably linked to the sea, the farming is difficult and done completely by hand, with the vines trained in the traditional overhead
style called pergola to maximize airflow and exposure to sunshine in this cool and humid climate. The full Atlantic exposure produces Albariños with a uniquely brisk and saline character, the kind of wines that pair effortlessly with the abundant fresh seafood that the region is famous for.
Nanclares Albariño comes from 8 parcels in the parroquias (or parishes) of Cambados and Ribadumia. After a cool spring and late summer heat in August, grapeswere hand-harvested from Sept. 10th to Oct. 6th, pressed whole cluster into two 2000L steel vats and five used 450-500L French oak barrels, and fermented with native yeastwith malolactic fermentation suppressed in order to retain the naturally high acidity. The wine was raised on the lees for 9 months, bottled with modest levels of SO2, and was not clarified or filtered. An acid-driven, profound, and angular expression of Val do Salnés Albariño