The “bewildering” Desconcierto Albariño is produced by the garagiste winery Cambados Urban Winery in the small coastal village of Cambados in the Rias Baixas of Galicia in northwest Spain. You may remember the debut 2016 vintage of this wine remains one of our most important European wine discoveries from our travels (summer of 2017). Owner and winemaker Antonio Galiñanes Fernández produces only 4,000 bottles each vintage. After we found a US importer for the 2016 Desconcierto, the wine has gained tremendous demand, and now being sold in small quantities to fine dining restaurants in the five western states.
Desconcierto is sourced from 25+ year old vineyards situated at an altitude of 10 metres above sea level very near the shores of the Arousa Estuary. The soils are basically composed of fine granite particles and sand. The spacing is 5 x 4 on a trellis system with a density of approximately 600 vines per hectare.
The 2020 Albariño was hand-harvested into 18-kilo bins over the second half of September. Clusters were sorted in the vineyard. The grapes are handled gently and undergo a very slow and low intensity pressing averaging about 4 hours. Once separated from the must, the juice is fermented spontaneously by indigenous yeast with care in temperature controlled stainless steel tank. Two weeks after the fermentation is complete, the wine is separated from the lees and transferred to remain only on its fine lees where it is aged for 7 months with pump-over every 15 days. Malolactic is controlled and only partial. 13.5% Alcohol – 3.1 pH.
Consistent in high quality like its previous vintages and a steps in line perfectly after the splendid 2019 vintage. Yellow fruits; nectarine, peach, pear and apples and accented with ocean brine minerality. Subtle notes of a baked white bread bun with a light brush of salty butter. Lush texture from the lees contact and stirring, but still the “required” tangy and fresh balancing acidity and salinity expected from the variety. Full-bodied, crisp and vibrant with mouthwatering citrus notes. Long finish with dry, saline-like mineral notes. Makes me hungry for shell fish of any kind!