Alberto Nanclares is a colleteiro working just 5 hectares of vineyards comprised of 13 tiny parcels around the town of Cambados and the Meaño areas of the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas. Alberto’s goal is to produce classic and age-worthy Albariños that reflect the unique characteristics of the grape and terruño by utilizing organic viticulture with very little intervention in the winery. With the 2014 vintage, Alberto started collaborating with organic farmer Roberto Regal. He also partnered with Silvia Prieto as his collaborator, to help with the day-to-day operations as well as with this growing and innovative domaine.
The Val do Salnés subzone is the heart of Rías Baixas and the most likely the ancestral home of the Albariño grape. The area centers around the town of Cambados and the Ría Arousa. Notable villages for wine production include Sanxenxo, Meaño, Ribaduma, amongst others. The full Atlantic exposure gives Albariños with a uniquely brisk and saline character, coupled with lush stone fruit, the kind of wine that pairs well with the richer shellfish and crustaceans the region for which the region is famous.
Silvia Prieto has put together this new cuvee, “O Bocoi Vello”, from 3 different organically farmed parcels located around the villages of Sanxenxo and Meaño where soils are granitic, sandy and clay. The pergola trellised vines range in age from 25 to 95 years. After a harvest-by-hand, the grapes are brought to the winery; the whole bunches are foot-stomped in plastic tubs, then pressed. The wine ferments with native yeasts in one each used 900 liter chestnut barrel and used 500 liter French oak barrel. Battonage is practiced weekly for the first month of aging, and then the wine rests on the lees for another 7 months before being bottled without filtration, clarification or cold stabilization, and a modest amount of SO2. Only about 400 six packs were produced.
“There is more finesse and fruit in the 2020 O Bocoi Vello de Silvia, but the wine feels very young and more closed, less expressive. At the end of the day, the two vintages felt different—2019 has more aromatic complexity right now, but the 2020 should develop it with more time. This also finishes dry. Even if today I prefer the 2019, I think this 2020 will be at the same level in time. Some 2,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2021. Drink 2023-2029.” – 94 points, Wine Advocate – Luis Gutierrez