2020 Stefan Muller Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben Niedermenniger Sonnenberg, Saar, Mosel, Germany

2020 Stefan Muller Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben Niedermenniger Sonnenberg, Saar, Mosel, Germany

$27.95

Description

“This Estate is now among the finest of the region, and a must address for acid-affine lovers of Saar Riesling.”  — Mosel Fine Wine Review

“The discovery of the year comes from the Mosel region, more precisely from the Saar. 28-year-old Stefan Müller is a young man, but he makes wines like an old hand. He invents nothing new and yet is resolutely modern. With wines that tell of craftsmanship and origin, he brings the unknown terroir of the Saar into the spotlight… This young winegrower will belong among the greats in ten years.”—Gault Millau Wine Guide Discovery of the Year 2017

The Müller estate consists of 10 hectares, mostly Riesling (90% of their holdings) and a little Pinot, both Noir and Blanc. Everything is hand-harvested on rolling
hillsides teeming with life and vegetation. The vines see no herbicides and no pesticides—only some fungicide when needed.  The labels depict topographical maps of each vineyard.

Müller also follows a surprisingly ad hoc usage of barrels and tanks, with no strict design for which wines go in what vessel; however, once a wine starts fermentation in one tank or barrel, it ages in that same vessel until completion. There is no chaptalization, and all wines ferment with wild yeast; sulfur is only added at bottling. In other words, Stefan skews organic at his small estate, but does not adhere strictly to the regimen that word implies: he is, in a word, pragmatic. The wines at Müller are exquisitely balanced, succulent, wildly aromatic, un-apologetically ripe, and true to the Saar.

Stefan Müller holds vineyards in the villages of Niedermennig and Krettnach. One of his prized sites is a parcel of 50 year-old vines (“alte reben”) situated in the western, south-west-facing part of the Niedermenniger Sonnenberg. This parcel is situated on iron-rich slate on a base of deep red soil. Year after year it is our favorite Kabinett from Stefan.  8g/l RS, 10.4g acid, 8.5% alc.

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